Cycling through the Weinviertel

Cycling Through the Weinviertel

The Weinviertel region is located in the northeastern corner of Austria, with easy access to the capital, Vienna. It’s ideal for gentle ebiking with plenty of rolling hills, acres of farmland, vineyards, and charming villages. Despite the name, it is not just about the wine. Steeped in farming traditions, with fields full of crops like sugar beets, sunflowers, wheat, and pumpkins, this area is a farmer’s basket.

The Landscape and Crops of Weinviertel

The name “Weinviertel” translates to “Wine Quarter,” and it’s easy to see why. Vineyards stretch across much of the region, producing some of Austria’s finest wines. The primary grape here is Grüner Veltliner, a refreshing white wine variety that pairs wonderfully with the local cuisine. In addition to grapes, the farmers of the Weinviertel grow sugar beets, which thrive in the fertile soil, as well as other crops like wheat, corn, and vast amounts of pumpkins. During the summer, the fields burst with vibrant colours from sunflowers and rapeseed (Canola).

Local cuisine

It’s always good to try local food; this area is no exception. In Austria’s wine areas, they fling open their doors and serve what they grow. Buschenschank or Heuriger, which means “Wine Tavern,” is well worth a visit. There is something heartening about stopping at a Heuriger and having a Brettljause, which means snack on a board, washed down with a crisp glass of Grüner Veltliner.

FYI: A Brettljause typically has cold meats like ham, salami, and local sausages, served with fresh bread, pickles, hard-boiled eggs, and cheese. Be aware—if you have something that looks like grated cheese, it’s horseradish, so don’t take a big bite unless you need to clear out your sinuses!

N.B. In the Weinveirtel, they are called Heuriger rather than Buschenschank, which they are known by in Steiermark. (Styria)

Other food on the menu in this part of Austria will include:

  • Wachauerlaberl – A favourite bread in the Weinviertel and the broader region of Lower Austria, it is a round, crusty loaf made with rye and wheat flour with a slightly sourdough flavour. It’s often served alongside hearty meals or a Brettljause.
  • Kürbiskernöl (Pumpkin Seed Oil) – Although pumpkin seed oil is more commonly associated with Styria, it’s also found in the Weinviertel. Local dishes might include salads drizzled with this dark, nutty oil or roasted vegetables accompanied by it or a dash added to some pumpkin soup.
  • Wild Game Dishes—In the autumn, menus in the Weinviertel feature game like venison, wild boar, and rabbit. These dishes are typically prepared with seasonal vegetables, like potatoes and cabbage, and served with rich sauces.
  • Marillenknödel (Apricot Dumplings)—One of my favourites, Marillenknödel, is made from dough that wraps around a whole apricot. They are a delicious and fruity way to end a meal or make them your entire meal, as they are pretty filling.

Cycling Routes and Terrain

The cycling routes here will take you through this patchwork of farmland. I love seeing what the farmers are growing, and as we visited in autumn, it meant harvest season was fully underway for several crops, including grapes, sugar beets, apples, and pumpkins.

That is why cycling in this area is so great. If it is ideal farming land with rolling hills, it is also ideal cycling territory. My head was literally on a swivel, taking everything in.

Cycling in the Weinviertel is fairly gentle, making it ideal for riders looking for a low-stress adventure. The terrain is a mix of rolling hills and flat stretches, so there’s enough variety to keep things interesting but nothing too strenuous. The routes are well-marked and designed for cyclists, with smooth paths that take you off the main roads and into the heart of the countryside. That doesn’t mean there is no uphill; one day, we covered 68 km with 790m of ascent, which is where the e-bike can be helpful.

Kellergassen – Cellar lanes

Popular routes include the Kellergassen Radweg, which offers a great experience: You can join a tour around one of the Kellergasse and taste the locally produced wine. The Kellergassen are quaint, cobblestone streets lined with old wine cellars, many of which have been converted into small restaurants or tasting rooms. You don’t need to join a tour; you can also just take a breather and enjoy a glass of that famous Grüner Veltliner.

For a more relaxed day, you might follow the paths that trace the rivers, like the Thaya or the March, where the landscape opens up into wide meadows and floodplains. These are great spots for a picnic or to take a breather and watch the world go by.

What we did

We did two round trips around Mistelbach: the Sylvaner and Blauburger tours. Both are well signposted. We tend to use Komoot, Google Maps, and a paper map of the area. There is a great one for the whole of the Weinviertel with all the routes marked on it. I like visualising what is around us on a bigger scale, which is why I like paper maps. Contact the tourist office at the link at the end of the blog.

Both Tours are on my Komoot account: https://www.komoot.com/user/1120590063119.

Sylvaner: https://www.komoot.com/tour/1906567935

Blauburger: https://www.komoot.com/tour/1908172693

What to Expect

One of the best things about cycling in the Weinviertel in Autumn is the lack of crowds. Unlike some of Austria’s more tourist-heavy cycling regions, the Weinviertel remains something of a hidden gem, offering peace and quiet that’s hard to find elsewhere. You can cycle for miles without encountering much traffic, just the occasional tractor or other cyclists. The region also enjoys plenty of sunshine, making it a pleasant place to ride in spring and autumn. The height of summer may be a bit on the warm side, which some cyclists will try to avoid. It is, however, a windier part of the country, hence the vast amount of wind turbines all over the countryside, making all that lovely renewable energy that Austria is famous for.

If you’re planning a trip, consider stopping at a local Heuriger. It really will make your stay memorable. It’s a great way to experience regional food and drink and refuel after a day of riding.

The routes are well-maintained and signposted; most are on quiet side roads or specific cycle paths, making it an ideal destination for those who want to enjoy the beauty of the Austrian countryside without too much strain.

Where to stay

There are many places to stay in the Weinviertel. Take a look at the Tourist Office website: Weinviertel Website.

I urge you to stay in a vineyard, a small village, or a farm. In my opinion, a smaller village or a farm really gives you the feel of the area. The owners are a great source of information and advice, too.

Using this website, you can stay on a Vineyard in a B&B or self-catering accommodation in one of the many little villages dotted around the area. Privat zu Gast

We stayed in Ferienhaus Faber in Eibsthal, a wee house with two bedrooms. It was perfect for relaxing after a long day on the bike, with a full kitchen and comfy beds. The owner is very helpful, and there is a secure place to leave your bikes overnight. There was also a hose, as our bikes were filthy after we took the wrong turn and ended up on a really wet and muddy track. Thank you to family Faber. Ferienhaus Faber

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