Mur Bike Path – Overview
I recently cycled the Mur Bike Path, which starts in St Michael im Lungau in the Salzburg Province of Austria and runs through Styria, ending up right at the far southeastern point of Austria in Bad Radkersburg, which borders Slovenia.
Mur Bike Path – Lungau Area
The Lungau area is beautiful and worth more than one day on your tour. I suggest you stay two nights at the Gasthof Metzgerstub’n in St Martin. The Gasthof has been recently renovated and is a beautiful place to relax and take in your surroundings. (see more details below)
The source of the river Mur
The source of the Mur is high up in the mountains. You can make your way to the Sticklerhütte by bike and then walk from there to the source of the River Mur. I would suggest taking the time for this part of the bike path as you can immerse yourself in the beauty of the mountains with the most fantastic views of the Alps surrounding you.
The Lungau is a pleasant cycling area along the valley floor, with a backdrop of mountains and luscious farmland with well-signposted bike paths. So, a day of exploring this area is a day well spent.
Mur Bike Path – heading east
The Mur bike path follows the river, which is relatively flat. It is mainly on side roads and bike paths through farmland with the backdrop of the area’s stunning mountains. It is not entirely flat, which makes it interesting and scenic. Please be aware there are a few sharp climbs to get your heart pumping.
Plenty of places to stop for coffee or to take in the view. Whatever you do, take your time to enjoy the views and soak up this beautiful area of the country. You ride in and out of small villages through Tamsweg & Murau, famous for its Murau beer, brewed here for five centuries. Then further on through Judenburg, which has a selection of places for coffee or lunch stops and into Knittelfeld.
Take a Break
Knittelfeld is famous for the Red Bull Ring at Spielfeld. Here you can try many experiences in cars or on bikes on this renowned racetrack. For the non-petrolheads, there are also experiences for you to try.
I suggest you leave the section from Knittelfeld to Leoben 36.5. The reason is the track is either beside or on the main road, which is not the prettiest and not as relaxing. I’m sure this section could be improved with some planning. I have seen an alternative path written about for this section, so if you are going to do this part, then take that. Or you could hop on the train, which will give you more time to spend in other places, it only takes 30 mins and costs under €10.
Mur Bike Path – Leoben
Leoben is a university town specialising in mining and is considered the gateway to the Styrian Iron Road. It is also home to the widely known and much loved Gösser beer which is worth trying. The river meanders through the old town, which has a bustling atmosphere. I stayed at the I AM Hotel, a purpose-built hotel with self-catering units for business people and university students. It is also a practical and comfortable accommodation for cyclists. We met some jolly cyclists who were staying here that were cycling the Mur Bike Path too. Chatting with fellow cyclists and hearing about their experiences on the same path is always nice. It provides a different dimension to the trip.
From Leoben, there is an alternative to the main cycle path that keeps you away from the main road. It is a bit up and down. But it is worth it as the views are better, and a more pleasant experience. This will take you to Bruck an der Mur for a coffee stop in the pretty centre of the town.
Bruck an der Mur to Graz
It is a lovely stretch from Bruck an der Mur down to Frohnleiten. The bike path runs beside the river through the trees. Then up into the forest along a slightly bumpy track which is quiet and away from the motorway sounds.
Frohnleiten is worth a stop. The leafy central area is surrounded by shops and cafes to choose from. Plus, benches are shaded from the sun for weary cyclists to rest and eat their packed lunch.
Just after Frohnleiten, you will come across Schloss Rabenstein set high up embedded into the hillside. It is an impressive sight but was closed due to Corona, or I would have liked to have visited it.
From here, it is a gentle meander down the river to the beautiful city of Graz. Graz is definitely worth a visit; it is a big university city which attracts students worldwide. You can feel the eclectic mix of students and city dwellers and their influences in the city. Make sure you plan time to take in some of the city’s sights.
Graz
Four Fun Facts about Graz
1. Floating Island: One of the most unusual features of Graz is the Murinsel (Mur Island). It is an artificial floating island located in the middle of the Mur River, connected to both banks by two footbridges. This unique structure serves as an urban recreational space with a café, amphitheatre, and stunning views of the city.
2. The Graz Schlossberg Slide: For thrill-seekers, Graz offers an exhilarating experience with the Schlossberg Slide. This stainless steel slide allows visitors to slide down from Schlossberg Hill, providing an adrenaline rush and a fun way to descend from the historic site. We took one look at it and said – no chance!
3. Graz’s Love Affair with Bicycles: Graz is known for its bike-friendly infrastructure and cycling culture. The city provides an extensive network of cycling paths, making it easy and enjoyable to explore by bike. Graz even offers free bicycle rentals, known as “Grat-Rad,” allowing locals and tourists to navigate the city on two wheels conveniently.
4. AI Symbol: Graz has gained recognition as a hub for artificial intelligence (AI) research. In fact, the city has adopted a unique symbol: an AI robot named “Homo Digitalis.” This symbol represents Graz’s focus on technological advancements and innovation, highlighting its dedication to cutting-edge research in the field of AI.
Mur Bike Path – Wine Region of Styria
Moving south from Graz, you head to the Wine Region of Styria. I love this area with its rolling hills and vineyards. I took a detour to spend time exploring the area properly. It was worth it, and I highly recommend you do the same. From the Alps Lungau to the wine region of Styria, you will feel like you ended up in Italy. If you are a wine lover or love trying local delicacies, this area is for you. You must try out some of the local favourites in a Buschenschank.
Buschenschank
This is where a farmer can open his farm to you and sell what he grows or produces on the farm, including wine, cordials, cheese, meat, cakes, butter and bread. Cold meats and cheese platters washed down with excellent red, white or rose wines. You could even try some of their Sparkling wines (my favourite), which rival Prosecco. This is an experience that you must not miss when in this area of Austria.
You can always tell if a Buschenschank is open as twigs will hang on the farm sign. This is because, originally, Buschenschank were small huts made of sticks. Therefore this is where the ‘buschen’ comes from, and now there are twigs outside to show the Buschenschank is open.
It’s a great experience to go to a Buschenschank, especially to taste the wine. Just don’t drive or cycle afterwards!
Mur Bike Path – The final leg of the journey
I rejoined the Mur Bike Path at Ehrenhausen with a flat route all the way to Bad Radkersburg. Through fields fit to bursting with pumpkins, corn, wheat, barley and quinoa crops. I had no idea where quinoa originated or how it was grown, but I do now!
You can complete this section in half a day to get to Bad Radkersburg. Giving you time for the transfer back to Lungau if that is where you left your car.
Mur Bike Path – Small changes
I enjoyed the tour even though I made some changes to the advertised route. The reason is that I felt that one of the days was not suitable for bikers who are not experienced. The route takes you to the main road. It is not a busy road, but I was passed by several large lorries. If you are not used to this, it can be unsettling. It also means you can’t look at the scenery around you as you focus solely on the road. I believe the people responsible for the bike path should consider changes. Or encourage people to take the train so they are not on the main road.
Return transfer
For the return transfer to St Michael, I used Bacher Reisen. They have a daily transfer from Bad Radkersburg, picking up along the way and back to St Michael im Lungau. You can leave your car at their bus depot for the duration of your tour. The full journey back costs €55 per person, including your luggage and bike. Getting the train is possible, but it finishes in Tamsweg. From there, you need to cycle back to St Michael.
This would be my suggested itinerary.
- 1st day – arrive in St Martin in Lungau, Gasthof Metzgerstub’n for two nights. Arrive early enough to cycle around to take in this pretty area.
- 2nd day – Cycle to the Sticklerhütte and from there walk to the source of the river Mur
- 3rd day– St Martin – Scheifling
- 4th day – Scheifling – Leoben (missing out on the section from Knittelfeld – Leoben)
- 5th day – Leoben – Graz
- 6th day – Graz – Gamlitz
- 7th day – Gamlitz – exploring the wine region
- 8th day – Gamlitz – Bad Radkersburg (pick up transfer coach back to St Martin in the afternoon)
Gasthof Metzgerstub’n, St Martin im Lungau
Family Sampl runs the Gasthof Metzgerstub’n, which has recently been renovated. It is a spacious, light, modern property with a traditional twist. You can feel the family’s passion for the hotel with the two generations involved in running it. The food was delicious, using local produce and very fresh.
There is a storage room for your bikes. If you have an e-bike, there are convenient plugs around the room to charge your battery. There is also a hose to clean your bike at the end of a dusty mountain day.
They offer guided bike tours. Speak to them on arrival to arrange.
